WHAT ARE THE CAUSES OF AGEING?
Ageing is a natural process, what we are trying to achieve, is to slow down the process. External factors such as sun exposure, poor skin care regimen, pollutants, chemicals, stress, poor diet, extremes of weather and a whole list of other factors speed up the ageing process. Some of these factors we can control. Ageing happens due to a host of factors- some genetically modified, some external and some internal. We can help you tackle both external and lifestyle factors of ageing. Ageing is influenced by mental and psychological emotional stresses and accelerated by nutritional and digestive issues; we help you, not only with products, but also a holistic solution for effective age reversal.
WHAT ARE BEST TREATMENT OPTIONS FOR MY AGEING SKIN?
The best treatment for anti-ageing involves a simple stepwise plan targeting all causes that accelerate the ageing process. Assessment from an experienced specialist and getting the correct advice is important. Most patients respond best with a combination of treatments directed towards cellular renewal, collagen and elastin production, hydration and revision of skincare regime. Below are a few key products recommended and endorsed by dermatologists and skin specialists that help reduce fine lines, wrinkles and to slow down the ageing process.
ANTIOXIDANT AND VITAMIN SERUMS
Vitamin serums such as Vitamin A, Vitamin B, Vitamin C and Vitamin E are effective in hydration, rejuvenation and exfoliation of the skin. It is important that when these serums are applied that an appropriate cleanser according to your skin type and exposure pattern is used.
PRESCRIPTION CREAMS
One of the most effective anti-ageing creams is tretinoin, retinol or other vitamin A based products. These prescription vitamin A creams are much more potent than the most other products, hence they are only on prescription. There are some non-prescription, over the counter, anti-ageing retinol based products but they may have a sub-optimal concentration and might not be very effective. The exfoliation, rejuvenation, evening of skin tone, lightening of skin and collagen stimulation are great highlights of this miracle drug. This is a prescription only medication and consultation with a medical practitioner or dermatologist is essential. As is true with anything else in life, the same applies to retinol products as well. Improper or over enthusiastic use may weaken the skin barrier, improper use may adversely affect the skin barrier.
ALPHA HYDROXY ACID EXFOLIANTS (AHA)
Products containing AHA’s are great, as they will encourage the flaking off and removal of the top layers of dead skin cells. They do this by breaking down the cellular glue that holds these dead skin cells together. Over time, this will reveal more vibrant, smoother, even toned, youthful skin. Many of these AHA’s such as glycolic acid, lactic acid, malic acid and citric acid are derived from natural sources such as sugar cane, milk, apples and citrus fruits. There are many strengths and combinations available; it is always advisable to use any strength above 3% under the supervision of a professional. However, if you do choose to use any product- preferably take one that offers good sun protection. Stop the use if there is planned sun exposure for prolonged periods to avoid risk of sunburn. Also avoid use if the skin is dry and feels flaky or raw. In such a case, first repair and hydrate the skin for a few days to prepare for a fruit acid AHA preparation.
SUNSCREEN
A premium quality sunscreen with SPF 50+ with a high UVA protection is essential when using AHA’s, vitamin A creams or serums. The skin undergoes quite significant rejuvenation and it is vital that a good quality sunscreen is worn. The skin is much more prone to sunlight damage such as pigmentation and dark spots. Not every sunscreen is the same and our choice must be based on our specific needs such as infrared ray protection etc.
So look for a sunscreen with a very high UVA protection.
While choosing a sunscreen it is important to keep the following factors in mind-
- Sunscreen is not just about SPF and there are other factors like PA production and infrared ray protection.
- If your sunscreen contains silicones, it might give a nice Matte Finish but it may not be the best for every skin type. So it is important to choose the base of a sunscreen according to your skin type.
- Some sunscreens contain additional ingredients which help in specific functions like anti-acne, anti-aging, skin lightening and brightening and Anti-redness agents like bacillus thermus thermophillus extract, phospholipids for skin repair function. So we recommend you to choose as per your specific skin condition and needs of your skin.
FOOD SUPPLEMENTS
The purifying nature of pure herbs and combinations like Indian Gooseberry, Manjistha and many others, impart a bright and clear complexion, relief to occasional itchiness, less heat in the body, support for the proper functioning of the liver and kidneys, elimination of natural toxins, and overall support for energy and health. They help purify the blood (Liver detox) and thus help in maintaining a graceful and beautiful complexion. These work by being a natural Detoxifier and rejuvenative health tonic that help remove natural toxins and remove “excess heat” from all tissues.
Pregnant/lactating mothers should avoid taking any such supplements without proper consultation with a physician.
WHAT PRODUCTS SHOULD BE PART OF ANTI-AGEING MANAGEMENT PLAN?
SUNSCREEN
Sunscreen is extremely important not only because of UV rays, but also because the infrared rays contribute to skin damage as well. Along with choosing the right sunscreen an important factor is to apply it right there for example at least 1.25 ml is needed for the full face. A SPF50 sunscreen with a very high UVA and UVB protection is essential when following this regime. There is a difference when comparing sunscreens, so look for a very high UVA protection as most will only consider UVB. The following is a basic outline for an anti-ageing skincare regime.
While choosing a sunscreen it is important to keep the following factors in mind-
- Sunscreen is not just about SPF and there are other factors like PA production and infrared ray protection.
- If your sunscreen contains silicones, it might give a nice Matte Finish but it may not be the best for every skin type. So it is important to choose the base of a sunscreen according to your skin type.
- Some sunscreens contain additional ingredients which help in specific functions like anti-acne, anti-aging, skin lightening and brightening and Anti-redness agents like bacillus thermus thermophillus extract, phospholipids for skin repair function. So we recommend you to choose as per your specific skin condition and needs of your skin.
CLEANSER
It is extremely important to choose an appropriate cleanser while planning an anti-ageing regime. Too harsh a cleanser and you will reduce the efficiency of your regimen, too soft and mild a cleanser will not give you a clean feeling.
Our recommendation will always be to choose a mild skin cleanser, which does not rip apart, the natural protective oils covering our skin. Most commonly it is seen that we choose cleansers, which have a soft lather. This may not be the best practice for skin that is prone to dryness or for skin that is eczema and redness prone or generally sensitive. We should choose a cleanser with minimal detergent base. There are many cleansers marketed with specific properties like anti-acne, anti-redness, skin repair and hydration. It is important to understand here that cleanser is an adjuvant to such problems as the contact time of a cleanser with the skin is very low, they may not be very functional in terms of the efficacy of treating the problems when used alone. So for example, if we expect our acne to be treated by using an anti-acne face wash only, it may not be the best practice to do.
GROWTH FACTOR SERUM
Growth factors occur naturally within the skin cells and as the skin ages, growth factors deplete. Growth factors have been originally developed based on the natural human growth hormone. Many products have come out with different growth factors, which are generally called peptides. Peptides are a great new addition to the already wonderful options of skin products that we have. Different peptides have different functions.
For example- some work for skin lightening and brightening, some work on fine lines and wrinkles whereas others for hair growth. Yet new ones are being added which work on new collagen formation and reducing visible signs of aging.
VITAMIN SERUMS
Vitamin B, C, E and A serums:
Applied in the morning after cleansing, it hydrates and reduces inflammation to give a fuller looking skin.
Vitamin C serum:
Applied in the morning after cleansing, it lightens and brightens the skin whilst also hydrating the skin. Vitamin C helps stimulate collagen to give you plumper looking skin. Vitamin E and C can be mixed together and applied.
Now Vitamin C is a very important part of our skin care. It can work wonders for most people even when used alone, what is most important to note here is the choice of product- which means not just the brand name but the type of Vitamin C it contains is extremely important. There are many Vitamin C serums available, which contain just ascorbic acid for such products; the stability is questionable. As we all know that Vitamin C oxidizes very fast it changes color and significantly loses its efficiency. Therefore, it is important to choose a Vitamin C serum, which is stable, does not lose efficiency and gives the desired results when used over a prolonged period of time.
Vitamin A serum or cream:
Applied at night after cleansing, it assists in the stimulation of skin cell production, lightens skin, and reduces fine lines and wrinkles. Vitamin A serum is a great idea especially for aging skin. When used appropriately it works wonders and is a time-tested product for ageing skin care. However, it is important not to overdo these vitamin A serums for when they are overdone, instead of making the skin barrier stronger they may end up making the skin more sensitive. Also watch out for sun exposure while using these vitamin A based serums. Another point to note here is that the concentration of vitamin A is extremely important to low and it will not work too high and you will experience more adverse effects.
MOISTURISER
A good moisturizer will hydrate the skin and give added benefits to the serums. An anti-oxidant or growth factor moisturizer is highly recommended and will prevent premature damage caused by free radicals and assist in regeneration of new skin. It is very important to use this overnight as a night cream for the night is when most of the repair processes occur. An antioxidant moisturizer can be used during the day if you require added hydration after the vitamin B and C serum.
EYE SERUM OR CREAM
Eye serums or creams generally contain a concentrated amount of active ingredients. Be careful not to get the product into the eye. Apply the eye cream using the tips of your ring finger. Apply a few small drops underneath the eye and continue to gently tap until the cream has absorbed into the skin. Do not rub or stretch. The skin around the eye is very fragile and thin. Most creams can only be used underneath the eyes but some can also be used on the upper eyelid. Make sure to speak to a skin care consultant if you choose to do so. Stop use immediately in case you feel any irritation.
HOW IMPORTANT IS EXFOLIATION?
There are many ways of exfoliating the skin cells; it helps by initiating the new cellular turnover, thereby refreshing the skin. However even before starting to know more about different methods of exfoliation, we must understand that exfoliative methods are not meant for every skin, and the amount of exfoliative treatments used has to be titrated as per individual needs. Multiple fruit acid, AHA and BHA based preparations are used for helping exfoliation. There are also some exfoliating masks, which aid in exfoliating and hydrating at the same time.
DOES MAKEUP ALSO HELP IN AN ANTI-AGEING REGIMEN?
Besides covering up visible signs of age, makeup can be used as a tool to help in treating ageing skin too. Some mineral makeups contain vitamins, which can assist in healthier looking skin. Selecting the correct powder-matte or luminous, according to your skin type can also make you look years younger. The main benefit is reaped when we choose make up with minimal chemicals and metals that may cause inflammation on the skin. Make ups providing additional sun protection also makes things convenient, and are known to have a beneficial role in preventing aging. But also it is important to note here that makeup must be removed properly and the skin should be allowed some time to breathe. Always remember whatever the claims may be, there may not exist any makeup which may allow the skin to completely breathe free.
Look for a mineral makeup free from parabens, phenoxyethanol, that have a low risk to allergic reactions. A lot of mineral makeup products are known to contain traces of some heavy metals such as Nickel, Cadmium, and Copper can be irritating to the skin. Make sure that your mineral makeup conforms to these testing standards. Other added benefits include giving you excellent coverage for your face whilst at the same time giving you sun protection. The skin does not feel heavy with coverage and feels feather light, in turn is allowed to breathe naturally.
WHAT ALL MEDICATION- ORAL AND TOPICAL, ARE ADVISED?
TRETINOIN
Tretinoin cream and similar creams are commonly prescribed by dermatologists to reduce fine lines, wrinkles and pigmentation. It boosts collagen production, skin cell turnover and reduces production of melanin. It is derived from Vitamin A and it is used for the treatment of many skin conditions. It can cause severe irritation to the skin if it is not used correctly. One may start with a low concentration and then build up on it. Also season and type of skin need to be factored in before choosing the right concentration.
Side effects of tretinoin cream include: Light sensitivity, dryness and stinging.
A.H.A - The fruit acid preparations.
These are generally derived from natural sources like sugarcane etc. they work wonderfully well by loosening the dead skin cells, aiding in new cell formation. Some fruit acids, like lactic acid, derived from milk, if used in the right concentrations also help in hydration.
There are many types of preparations available. Preparations, which contain free AHA, are more acidic and cause more irritation. The other type of preparations are much safer and gentler on the skin, these are the buffered pH or esterified preparations.
Astaxanthin
Astaxanthin and other “colored” supplements like these aid internally in scavenging the age accelerating free radicals. This is documented to be reducing wrinkles even when used externally.
Besides these there are many oral and external options which may be recommended as per your skin type.